|桂林的植物纖維與染織技術應用淺介|
Introduction to Guilin's Plant Fiber and Dyeing and Weaving Technology Application
桂林村位於台灣雲林縣古坑鄉,距離雲林科技大學大約30分鐘車程,自20X0年開始雲科大老師們在此進行了陪伴計畫。
本次課程將介紹桂林村目前進行與織染相關的三項活動: 1.山棕纖維應用2. 檳榔染織3. 薑黃染織。
Guilin Village is located in Gukeng Township, Yunlin County, Taiwan. It is about a 30-minute drive from Yunlin University of Science and Technology. Since 20X0, some teachers for our University have carried out some projects here.
This course will introduce three activities related to weaving and dyeing in Guilin Village:
1. Mountain palm fiber application
2. Betel nut dyeing and weaving
3. Turmeric dyeing and weaving.
|山棕纖維應用|
台灣棕梠有紅色與黑色,在桂林使用的是紅色?
山棕(Arenga tremula (Blanco) Becc.)的嫩葉像根粗大的針,因為所有的羽葉都疊在一起,尚未伸展開來。
The young leaves of mountain palm(Arenga tremula (Blanco) Becc.) are like thick needles, because all the leaves are stacked together and have not yet been Stretched out.
村民們會利用彎刀將其砍下後曬乾,
The villagers would cut it off with a machete and then dry it.
曬乾的山棕嫩葉,羽葉會自動分開,可以用來綁掃把,
The dried young palm leaves will separate automatically and can be used to tie a broom.
或者是搓成繩子,用來編成套木瓜用的網子。
Or it can be twisted into a rope and used to make a net for picking papaya.
採木瓜的時候,將網子綁在竹竿末端,採摘高處的木瓜,避免木瓜摔落地面損壞。
When picking papaya from high place, to avoid damage to the papaya from falling to the ground, they tie the net to the end of the bamboo pole.
山棕的葉尾呈現不規則狀,台灣原住民賽夏族有一段傳說,
About the reason that the leaf tail of the mountain palm is irregular.
There is a legend from the Say-Siyat tribe
據說當年賽夏族與矮人一同生活的,矮人因精於農耕、打獵、法術,幫了賽夏族人不少忙。
It is said that the Say-Siyat people lived with the dwarves, and the dwarves helped the Say-Siyat people a lot because they were good at farming, hunting, and spells.
但後來因賽夏族無法忍受矮人對該族婦女的好色行為,而展開報復,
But later because the Say-Siyat could not bear the lustful behavior of the dwarves in connection with the women of the tribe, they retaliated.
受到攻擊而近於滅亡的矮人,因此用山棕葉對賽夏族人下了咒語,
The dwarf who was attacked and nearly perished, therefore cast a curse on the Say-Siyat tribe with mountain palm leaves.
據說山棕葉原本是橢圓狀的,因矮人每下一個咒語,葉子就裂開,變成現在形狀。
It`s said that the mountain palm leaves were oval in the beginning, but because of the curse from the dwarf, the leaves split and become their current shape.
之後,賽夏族受了詛咒,族人生病、收成不好…,
After that, the Saixia tribe was cursed, the tribe was sick, and the harvest was not good, either.
賽夏族決定以祭典安慰矮靈,後來才有矮靈祭的產生,而山棕也變成了矮靈祭裡重要的植物之一。
The Say-Siyat decided to comfort the dwarf spirits with prayer. Later, the dwarf spirit sacrifices were produced, and the mountain palm has become one of the important plants in the dwarf spirit prayer.
|檳榔染織 / Betel nut dyeing and weaving|
檳榔因為會導致口腔癌,成了眾所唾棄的農作物,
Betel nut has become a crop rejected by everyone because it can cause oral cancer.
但在台灣經濟剛起飛時,因為工人和司機都需要靠檳榔提神,
But when Taiwan’s economy just took off, because workers and drivers both needed to rely on betel nuts to refresh themselves,
所以檳榔曾是最具經濟價值的作物,養活許多農村的家庭。
therefore, betel nut was once the most economically valuable crop, supporting many rural families.
為了協助檳榔轉型,我們將檳榔留在樹上讓它長大,
In order to assist this type use of betel nut, we leave the betel nut, on the tree and let them grow up.
待檳榔掉落後,再挖取其種子,曬乾,煮成染料,用來染線。
After the betel nut has fallen, the seeds are dug out and dried, boiled into dye, and used to dye thread.
染好的線則可用來編織包包與製作茶席布等等。
The dyed thread can be used to weave bags and make fabric spread for tea table, etc.
| 薑黃染織/ Turmeric dyeing and weaving.|
桂林很適合栽種根莖類作物,
Guilin Village is very suitable for planting root crops.
春末的時候居民會開始種薑,冬天收成,
At the end of spring, residents will start planting ginger and harvest in winter.
有一年因為薑黃生產過剩,我們覺得居民丟棄辛苦栽種的薑黃很可惜,
One year, because of the overproduction of turmeric, the residents felt it would be a pity to discard. The turmeric after all their hard work,
於是便將薑黃拿來染線織包包,
So they used turmeric to dye thread and weave bags,
結果發現染出來的效果非常好,包包很漂亮。
It turns out that the dyed effect is very good, and the bags are very beautiful.